Japan - Shikoku
Shikoku is the smallest of the four main islands of Japan. The pilgrimage route follows the footsteps of a venerated Buddhist priest, scholar, poet and calligrapher, Kobo Daishi, or Kukai. Born in 774 CE, he is said to have walked around the island in his youth, searching for enlightenment. He is most famous for founding the Shingon ("True Word") school of Buddhism, and he is credited with inventing two ground-breaking systems of writing. As far as the oldest surviving texts indicate, followers began retracing Kukai's journey some time prior to the mid-12th century. The first guidebook was written in the 1680s.
The number 88 has significance which has been debated for years. The most widely-spread theory is that 88 represents the number of evil passions identified in the Buddhist doctrine, and therefore by visiting each temple, one can be purified. Additionally, in completing the entire pilgrimage, one passes through four provinces and their corresponding spiritual stages (Awakening Faith, Religious Discipline, Enlightenment and finally, Nirvana.) At each temple, dozens, if not hundreds of deities dot the grounds. Each represents an individual aspect of the Buddha, inspires a particular heavenly virtue, offers a unique kind of protection, or embodies a different fundamental religious precept. The most commonly represented deity is Jizo, the protector of children and travelers.
Stamp books are filled in with beautiful calligraphy at each temple. Unlike the Camino, though, on Shikoku it is possible to obtain a stamp book and certificate of completion without doing the pilgrimage the old-fashioned way. One may visit temples by motorcycle, car, tourbus, or even, as rumour has it: helicopter! Most Japanese pilgrims, - henro - complete only a small section of the pilgrimage at a time, over a week or weekend during holidays.
Terrain on Shikoku varies, as it does on the Camino. The trail often parallels the highway, passing through several bustling cities and a multitude of towns. But then there are steep tracks over rocky mountains, there are rustling bamboo forests, sunny beaches, and fields of rice. The route circles the island in a clockwise direction, taking roughly 6-8 weeks to complete by foot. It is one of the only circular pilgrimages in the world, and is almost twice as long as the Camino Frances, at roughly 1400 km, or 870 miles.
Traditionally, pilgrimage seasons are spring, with pink cherry blossoms, and fall, with bright red maple leaves. Winter and summer weather can be extreme. Pack what you would for the Camino: lightweight, breathable clothing, and raingear. Modest attire is suggested for entry to the temples. Many pilgrims still wear traditional garb: a broad conical hat woven from grass, sandals and white trousers with a matching smock, bearing the calligraphy: "dougyou ninin", meaning "Daishi and I, going together". Topped off with walking staff, the henro bears a striking resemblance to St James!
There is an extensive list of items a traditional henro must carry, but even casual pilgrims usually bring the following things in a satchel: stamp book, coins for offering, and name cards, which are also left as offerings with personal prayers written on the back. A series of religious rituals is performed as well, starting with rinsing of the hands and mouth, ringing the temple bell to alert Kobo Daishi to your arrival, lighting candles or incense and making offerings of money and even food or water. Special Buddhist sutras and chants are also recited, and there are many additional rites for the especially devout.
Accommodations can be found in about half of the temples. These are small rooms for one or two, with floor-mats, and usually a simple meal is included. Reservations are often required. There are hostels, but not like on the Camino. Other types of lodgings include the business hotel, ryokan and minshiku. The latter two are very traditional, with futons, shared meals and ofuro (Japanese bath). The former is more western-style, offering basic private rooms with small single beds and cabinet-style bathroom.
Costs are not low in Japan. Even the temples charge for lodging, and also for your stamp. Generally, you should expect to pay between 4000-8000 Yen ($37-74 USD) per person, per night for accommodation, and 1000 to 2500 yen ($9-23 USD) for food, depending if your lodging provides it. Good cheap noodles can be found everywhere, and convenience stores –konbini- sell surprisingly good sushi rolls and things like yogurt. Vending machines are also plentiful, offering an overwhelming variety of beverages.
Exchange of money or travelers' cheques is possible in larger centers, at Authorized Foreign Exchange banks. Foreign debit cards don't work, but major credit cards can be used, during business hours, at the Post Office ATM. Japan mainly operates on a cash system, so you'll need to keep plenty with you. Fortunately there is little crime to worry about. Internet access is spotty and phone boxes come in a confusing variety of shapes and colours. Do take a guidebook and dictionary. Shikoku is not nearly as cosmopolitan as places like Tokyo, and though people are extremely helpful, there are not many English-speakers to be found.
There are as many reasons for undertaking a pilgrimage on Shikoku as there are pilgrims. No reason is wrong. The path, surrounded by natural beauty, is strewn with countless ancient myths and legends, and is steeped in the mysteries of a very foreign culture. There is so much to see and feel and discover.
BUDDHIST PRECEPTS
- Do not kill.
- Do not steal.
- Do not engage in inappropriate sex.
- Do not tell lies.
- Do not flatter others untruthfully.
- Do not speak badly of others.
- Do not be deceitful.
- Do not be greedy.
- Do not get angry.
- Do not cause wrongful thinking by others.